THE HIDDEN VALLEY (The Italian magzine January 2008)

Alf Alderson discovers some of Italy’s most diverse skiing above the glamorous resort of Cortina.

No one would call this your average ski experience – three skiers peeking out of a porthole-like opening in the massive rockface of 2,800m Mount Lagazuoi above Cortina, with a view across some of the most spectacular mountains in Europe.

We looked down upon a sprinkling of skiers enjoying the wide, open run beneath us, realising that they could never have guessed they were being observed – which was exactly the point. For the spot where myself, David and Fiona were crouched was an observation post that had been excavated out of the solid limestone peak during the First World War when Italian and German troops fought a two-year battle for control of Passo Falzarego beneath.

You can now ski up to the tunnel entrances, unclip from your bindings and clatter around inside the galleries (tricky in ski boots) to get a feel for what life may have been like up here ninety years ago - “Great views but bloody freezing!” as David pointed out.

Emerging from the cold gloom of the tunnels it’s a relief to clip back into your skis and swoop off down the long and undulating piste that takes you from the top of Lagazuoi. You pass first across a high limestone plateau where the snow glints beneath crystalline blue skies, then drop down between vast honey coloured crags to a small mountain restaurant where most skiers stop off for a cappuccino or bombardino and to gaze up admiringly at the beautiful mountains that surround them.

Coffee break over, the surprises keep coming once you continue your descent. Just a few hundred metres further down the piste you suddenly whiz past a frozen waterfall, cool blue in the mountain shadows, immediately after which those skiers in the know will hit maximum speed on the steep descent that follows in order to get up momentum for the long flat section ahead.

This eventually leads, several kilometres from your start point, to the next ski lift - a horse and sleigh. Pay €2, grab hold of the rope behind the sleigh, and travel under one horsepower to the final schuss of the Hidden Valley and the end of one of the most memorable ski runs in Europe.

Were this any other ski resort then the Hidden Valley would be the high point of most people’s ski holiday, but this is Cortina, and it’s just one of many unforgettable adventures that any skier other than a complete beginner can enjoy.

Approaching Cortina from Passo Falzarego, as you will after a day skiing the Hidden Valley, the first thing you’ll notice are the limestone fangs of Cinque Torri, thrusting up into sky like broken teeth. Seen from Cortina they appear striking but small – ski beneath them, as you can, and they’re mightily impressive – so much so that they were one of the locations used in Sylvester Stallone’s ludicrous ‘climbing’ movie ‘Cliffhanger’.

Below Cinque Torri is Socrapes/Pocul, unbeatable beginner terrain where the tree-lined slopes are as reminiscent of undulating English parklands as alpine adventure territory. These slopes too have had a taste of movie fame, appearing as the backdrop to the first Pink Panther film in 1963 as David Niven (well, his double) schussed stylishly down their gentle gradients.

Just in case more adventurous skiers are by now beginning to think this all sounds a bit tame, looming over Socrapes is the bigger and steeper Tofana ski area, and above this again the high level slopes of Ra Valles. I enjoyed some unforgettable off-piste skiing here on a classic Cortina winter morning – a few inches of fresh powder, a powder blue sky and even as late as ten o’clock in the morning only four other people on the untracked powder fields before me. Bliss…

When fatigue got the better of me I skied down to the restaurant at the base of Ra Valles with a couple of Swedish skiers I’d met earlier to enjoy some of the loveliest views in the Dolomites - limestone towers and crags poke up into the sky in all directions whilst Cortina basks contentedly in the sun below. On the opposite side of the valley can be seen the resort’s two other ski areas of Faloria and Mietres, where a week later I was yet again lucky enough to score more fresh powder and sunshine, this time picking lines between the trees and eventually heading up to the base of the rickety old chair that takes you to the top of Cortina’s steepest run, 2930-m high Staunies.

Alas, in all my three weeks in Cortina the powers that be never considered conditions safe enough to open this steep black run…No matter – with Aussie ski buddy Cam I made my way back over to Faloria’s upper slopes to chill out on the summit in the afternoon sunshine and partake of that almost compulsory aspect of Italian skiing, people watching.

However, the best place for this is back down in town. Pop into the Clipper Bar for a busy but not too frenetic après-ski pint, then wander out onto Corsa Italia, the main strip, and be amazed…

Once the last chair lift grinds to a halt and the pink and purple shades of sunset fade away on the peaks surrounding Cortina, ladies of a certain age emerge from the shadows like butterflies from a cocoon to display what were once the warm outer layers belonging to various small mammals from mink to sable. What would cause outrage on UK streets is a fashion parade in Cortina, and you can even buy or hire your own fur from any number of shops in the town.

Not my scene but, whatever your views on wearing fur, a fascinating spectacle all the same. And their furs clearly keep Cortina’s ladies warm, because they would wander the piazzas far longer than I ever did. I preferred to be in a warm restaurant enjoying that other essential aspect of Italian skiing – fine food and wine.

In that respect Cortina has it all - fun skiing, atmospheric bars and restaurants and fine dining - something to suit pretty much everyone really. Well, everyone apart from mink and sable…


ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE
Treviso Airport (www.trevisoairport.it), served by Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) is two hours from the resort. There are flights from several UK airports. Hotel transfers are available Sat and Sun for hotel guests, otherwise good train and bus services run between the airports and Cortina.
GETTING AROUND
Free ski buses shuttle between the different ski areas regularly throughout the day and into early evening, but since most ski areas are linked only by buses and not ski lifts (Cortina’s one major drawback) a car is a good option – hire at the airport and drive to the resort.

WHERE TO STAY

Budget
Hotel Villa Resy, Via Riva 49, Cortina d’Ampezzo (BL). Tel. +39 0436 3303. www.dolomiti.org A little out of town but very Anglophile and great home made grappa! The owner is happy to provide lifts into town too.
Des Alpes, Via La Vera 2, Cortina d’Ampezzo (BL). Tel. +39 0436 862021.              www.desalpescortina.it  Great mountain views and friendly staff make this a popular budget option.

Moderate
Hotel Villa Argentina, Pocol m. 1540, Cortina d'Ampezzo (BL).Tel. +39 0436 5641. www.cortina.dolomiti.org/hargentina Situated on the edge of the Pocul ski area with tremendous views and within easy reach of the World Cup Downhill ski race held annually on the nearby slopes.
Hotel de la Poste, Piazza Roma 14, Cortina d'Ampezzo (BL). Tel. +39 0436 4271. www.delaposte.it Right in the middle of town, with a busy bar and restaurant and great ambience.

Luxury
Cristallo Palace Hotel & Spa, Via Menardi, Cortina d'Ampezzo (BL). Tel.+39 0436 881111. www.cristallo.it Award winning hotel with excellent spa facilities for recuperating after a hard day on the nearby slopes.
Miramonti Majestic, Via Riva, Cortina d’Ampezzo (BL). Tel. +39 0438 493500. www.miramontimajestic.it Located just out of town (but with regular shuttle service) this is one of Cortina’s most opulent hotels – guests include Hollywood stars and royalty.

WHAT TO SEE

Enoteca wine bar (+39 0436 862040) on Via del Mercato has a sensational range of over 700 wines and also offers tapas-style snacks. A great place to meet the locals.

Rifugio Averau +39 0436 4660 mountain restaurant at Cinque Torri is worth a visit just for the views, but the pasta and wine are just as good. Book ahead though, it’s one of the most popular mountain restaurants.

Venice - just over 2.5 hours away and a great option on bad weather days.

WHERE TO EAT

The Tivoli +39 0436 866400 is the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Cortina (surprisingly), situated below the Lacedel ski area with good views of the town. Try mountain fare such as deer, or the prize winning tortelli de patate.

WHEN TO GO

Avoid early season when snow conditions can be dodgy, and February school holidays when the slopes are crowded. March is a great month – plenty of snow, warm sunshine and longer days.

TOURIST INFORMATION

www.cortina.dolomiti.org

ALF’S CHOICE

Hotel Montana, Corso Italia 94, Cortina d’Ampezzo (BL), +39 0436 860498, www.cortina-hotel.com  has amazingly good value accommodation in the heart of Cortina, and the restaurant serves up tasty, filling meals for hungry skiers after which you can walk straight into the heart of town for people watching and window shopping.